Sept 17th – Bordeaux

Day 4 – Tuesday

Today was spent exploring Bordeaux by foot and tram before capping the evening off with a delicious meal at Gordon Ramsey’s restaurant, The Brasserie, at the Intercontinental Hotel.

Leaving our hotel, we made our way to the Monument aux Girondins, commemorating the martyrdom of the Girondists, a political faction executed during the French Revolution’s Reign of Terror. Atop the tall central column is a statue representing Liberty breaking her chains, symbolic of the Girondists’ ideals. She and the 54-meters tall column she crowns became a landmark for us as it can be seen from numerous vantage points throughout the old town.

After admiring the allegorical bronze sculptures surrounding the base, we made our way through a blue iron gate into the Jardin Public, a lovely oasis of planned nature including an island set aside as a children’s playground; expansive lawns; a monumental “folly”; and an Orangerie where we paused for a cup of espresso before exiting to the streets to circumvent Bordeaux’s Golden Triangle.

Our group separated into shoppers and non-shoppers as we walked down another stretch of rue Sainte-Catherine, which is billed as the longest shopping street in Europe BTW. Rob, Peg and I were in the lead and within sight of Dan and Mary. The Rosenbergers and Fongs fell increasingly behind as shops beckoned and they responded. Pausing to allow the stragglers to catch up, Dan directed the three of us to an arcade lined with small shops that lead to a hidden courtyard with an equally-hidden church.

After we all regrouped, it was time to head to lunch at Les Halles before visiting this afternoon’s highlight,  La Cité du Vin, the wine museum. Our means of getting there was via a Bordeaux tram, the B Line.

Then, after being dropped off at the tram stop, on the short walk to the market, we passed two notorious remnants of WWII and the Nazi occupation of Bordeaux: the German-engineered (and still operational) canal lock leading to an inner harbor; and, just beyond to the right, the hulking mass of the former Nazi submarine base, Base Sous-Marine. With 7-meters thick concrete walls and roof, it survived constant Allied bombing and remains, to this day, more or less indestructible. As of 2010, about one-third of the building has been opened to the public, repurposed as a cultural center for more creative, less destructive ends.

Lunch was a self-serve affair, as we wandered the stalls of Les Halles de Bacalan in search of the ideal luncheon fare from the myriad of choices the market afforded. After purchasing our meals, we regrouped at an outside table to fuel up for an afternoon of wine history at La Cité du Vin museum across the road.

La Cité du Vin museum
One cannot but be amazed by the unique and bold structure of curves that form the building’s exterior as it swirls like wine in a glass, reaching skyward like the slender neck of a wine carafe.

Sometimes described as an amusement park for wine lovers, the museum offers an immersive, interactive journey that celebrates wine culture worldwide while educating visitors on the “whats”, “whens” and “hows” of winemaking and wine history. (There’s no need to explain the “whys.” That’s self-evident after a taste!)

As for our visit, I could have used more time. Afterwards, when Rob, Peg and I were comparing notes, I discovered that there were many exhibits and encounters I never found, much less experienced. But we were on a timetable (altho’ we probably could have diverted from it with ease) and were meeting in the “observation bar” atop the museum for an included glass and the view. So, after a tasty flute of a sparkling rosé, we bid adieu to the Cité du Vin and headed back to the hotel in anticipation of tonight’s dinner. 

However, what should have been a simple walk to and hop on the tram turned into a much longer riverside walk as the tram line was down for some reason and everyone had to hoof it (maybe “trudge” is a better verb choice) for most of the way. Rob and I eventually caught up with an in-service tram and boarded…only to find that our destination was the next stop!

Dinner that evening was at Le Bordeaux restaurant (Gordon Ramsey’s place) in Le Grand Hotel. The meal was exquisite…as were the wines. (Again, was there any doubt?)